2/24/12

The new exiting Spain on my mind

I have been so busy and did not have any time to write here for to many days and I feel the need for it considering the writing on my book, more about this some other day.

Spain and its wines is right now the most interesting for me, there are many great wines and I’m happy to se the enormous development in Spain for the last ten years.

My luck is that I have the opportunity to taste some of the exiting new wines on the market and that always makes me very happy.

In two weeks I will be at Prowein in Germany to taste many more and if you are there let me know and we can meet up for a glass or 2.


aferrarse en una botella, así que no lo beben










2/12/12

Abi Duhr, winemaker behind the label

Abi Duhr rightly has his reputation as the enfant terrible of Luxembourg wines - and for good reason. Not for him the conventional, conservative and traditional winemaking of his neighbours, he is always prepared to push to the limit to gain that extra bit of quality out of all his wines.

Steeped in winemaking tradition and still responsible for final blending at the long-established family vineyards (Domaines Aly Duhr), his main work is at his Ch. Pauqué, in the picturesque village of Grevenmacher on the banks of the Mosel, which is 100% owned by him.
Château Pauqué is a small estate of about 5 ha which has vineyards spread over 6 villages from Schengen to Wasserbillig.
Two lines of wines are produced - the classic one (Riesling & Pinot Gris) and one with Burgundian characteristics, focused on wines fermented and aged in oak barrels.
The grapes are normally harvested from the beginning of October to mid November in order to get the best possible maturity.
The botrytised grapes do not see skin contact. Long fermentations, (the 2008 finished their fermentations only in July 2009) with natural yeasts give Châeau Pauqué wines a characteristic creamy harmony.

Over 70 % of the vineyards are located on the steepest hills of the Luxembourg Mosel Valley. With over 50 % of Riesling (some of the vineyards have been planted more than 60 years ago) the Châeau Pauqué Estate has one of the highest Riesling percentages in Luxembourg. Additionally, Abi grows Elbling, Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay.

What sets Abi apart from other wine producers, is his inherent ability to make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear - time and time again.
He makes a large range of wines - but just a few hundred bottles of each - starting with his entry level Bromelt, made from the normally boring Elbling grape, but even here, he manages to give it a “lift” like no one else has been able to do.
A quintet of Rieslings starting with wines from two different location - “Gravenmacher Fels” and “Paradäis”, show delicate finesse and good length, with the “Gravenmacher Fels” showing more mineral characteristics than the “Paradäis” which has a bit more citrussy fruit.
The “Gravenmacher Fels” is available in moelleux in the 2006 vintage, whilst there is a Veilles Vignes version of the “Paradäis” with more intensity of fruit.
A straight Veilles Vignes is also made from vines planted in 1942 and here the wine reaches an apogée of class with great spätlese characteristics which would make it a wonderful accompaniment to foie gras.
There is again a “Paradäis” Vendange Tardive, which does truly bring the wine into an auslese quality.

Whilst Riesling can be said to be the mainstay of Mosel grapes, it’s what Abi achieves with other, native and non-native grapes which is truly remarkable.
Pinot Gris “Paradäis” shows good varietal spiciness and “Fossiles” is another great blend of Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois, nutty and with good length.
It is in the treatment of the Auxerrois, however, not normally noted for its noble character, which takes on a new dimension under the “Clos du Paradäis” label. 100% Auxerrois with full, rich, nutty, intense and creamy complexity, it is a masterpiece.
And to see what can be done with Chardonnay at so north a latitude, confusingly labelled just “Château Pauqué”, is smooth and rich, but with a great tannic structure displaying perfect balance between the fruit and the acidity.
A new Chardonnay cuvée tasted en barriques (old ones at that) shows great promise. Finally “Montée des Seigneurs” is a late harvest Auxerrois, smooth and unctuous without being sickly sweet but an absolute must for drinking with your puds!

Abi’s wines are not cheap, but you won’t see them anywhere except in the best places - the best restaurants, the best wine shops and in the best homes - stop by and add your home to the list - it’s a delightful trip to Grevenmacher, wherever you are coming from.

Abi Duhr - Ch. Pauqué, 73 Route de Trèves, L 6793 Grevenmacher, Luxembourg.

more information info@winebehindthelabel.com.



Banan & Vin

När jag skulle möta upp en vän här om dagen för ett snabbt samtal så sitter denne och provar vin med inte mindre är allas vår Banarne Klasse Möllberg.

Klasse har sedan en tid tillbaka en vin importfirma med viner från Patagonien i Argentina producerat av den begåvade vinmakaren Leonardo Puppato och familjen Bodega Schroeder.

Familjen startade sin vin produktion i början av 2000 talet och gör nu viner på 120 hektar som alla är planterade med dom kända sorterna, vineriet som är nytt och använder gravitation och inga pumpar visar upp en ny sida av Argentinas viner där frukt och frächhet är det som man strävar efter utan att tappa kraft och koncentration.

Jag som alltid är nyfiken av mig kunde ju inte motstå Klasses erbjudande av att prova hela serien viner som han hade med sig till denna provning.

Det som stod ut var absolut deras reserva viner på Cab S, malbec så klart men där Pinot Noir var den klart bästa tyckte jag, dom gör även en mycket spännande SAURUS pinot noir late harvest med 67 gram restsocker som är väldigt intressant och passar i många vin paket på krogen.

Trevligt ny bekantskap som väcker intresse av vad mer som göms i Patagonien och där Parker redan har givit några av dessa viner +90 RP



Tack Chris & Klasse

2/11/12

Chateauneuf with a female touch

Chateauneuf du Pape is without doubt one of the most famous appellations in the wine world started way back in the 1300 century, this wine “Le Cedres” is made by the talented Caroline Frey from vines with an average of 45 years and with a nice blend of 75 % Grenache, 10 % syrah, 10 % cinsault and 5 % mourvedre.

This wine have been matured for 12 months on used barrels and show some beautiful colour with the opulent nose packed with cassis, dry fruits, herbs and spice.
The lingering texture show me more of a new world pinot noir with elegance, balanced tannins and great finesse,
I love cherry in wines and also spice, liquorice, herbs and sweet plums and I got it all here with massive long finish. This is really a woman’s touch to this wine and a great companion for all the Valentine lovers.
In Sweden you can buy this at systembolaget for 259 kr and the art number is 70616.
Red roses to you all out there